Automotive Spray Painting DIY spray booth

For most people getting into an accident is the worst. In my opinion it depends on the accident. A car accident can be great, as long as nobody was hurt, it’s a small “fender bender”, it’s not your fault, and their insurance is going to pay you.

In my case, for a bumper and taillight replacement, the insurance company was willing to give me $1000.00 This really isn’t worth the work commercially, but since the car was still drive-able, and I’d repair it on my time, I took it. I spend about $300.00 on an aftermarket, pre-primered bumper, taillight, and new paint. I have paint-and-body experience, so the practice was there, I just didn’t have the location.

Ideally, this should be done in a spray booth, but it is possible to do it in a gazebo or carport. The closer one gets to the ideal, the less likely it is to have things land on your paint before it dries. Dust, bugs, water, these are all enemies of your paint job.

What you should have:

  • All walls should be sealed: This can be accomplished with plastic sheeting, and masking tape.
  • There should be a filtered extractor: This can be a square fan, with two basic, blue air filters in front of it, this reduces damage to the environment, as well as over spray for you and your neighbors.
  • There should be a filtered intake: A screen, or metal frame with some air filter material attached to it will do the trick.

That should cover your spray booth if you don’t have a garage. Don’t forget to wet the walls and floor to help with flying particulates, and it doesn’t hurt to wet the air intake filter either. A decent compressor, filter, spray gun, mixing by manufacturer’s specs, patience, practice, and finesse, and you’re on your way to a professional paint job. An actual cross-flow example can be seen here from SprayShield:

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